advice: hotels

let's just say they're very generous with their stars here. hotels are cheap enough to splurge on a 4-star and be comfortable. we stayed mostly in 3-stars, and the difference is huge (think days inn vs. sheraton). if you do 5-star, you'll be paying western prices ($200/night or so), but it's worth it to go 4-star ($60 - $80/night) if you find the right place. 3-stars are fine in a pinch, but they wouldn't be my first choice ... the key is finding a shower you feel cleaner getting out of than into, and that's more likely to happen at a 4 star.