Wednesday, June 13, 2007

beijing!

Beijing

We off to Beijing to visit China's capitol and famous landmarks like Tianenmen Square and the Forbidden City. We take our second domestic flight … this one by an airline that never advertised its name once! We have no idea what it was called …. Something like huian air? It’s only a short flight, but we still get 2 drinks and some snacks. The main difference between American airlines and Chinese ones is on Chinese ones you always get a meal no matter what … and multiple drinks … but you have to return your tray tables to their upright and locked position 30 minutes before landing. The in-flight entertainment is interesting, as we’ve seen biographies of both Shirley Temple and Yogi Bear.


Upon landing we meet our new tour guide “John” who takes us to the forbidden city. Yay! We make plans to find the starbucks inside, since it’s been a hotbed of controversy lately, but we cant’ find it. How can people complain about it, if it’s so hidden? Anyway, we walk from one end of the forbidden city (called ‘forbidden’ since back in the day it was only open to emperors and higher ups, not commoners) to the other … then we hit Tianemen Square. Last time we were here I asked our tour guide where the massacre happened and he was like ‘what massacre? There was no massacre. There was only a discussion!’ so I wanted to ask again. Unfortunately, I asked John right when were in front of the main government building (the equivalent of the US capital building) and he’s like ‘we will not talk about the massacre here … there are too many ears and cameras. We will only talk about massacre on bus.’ Yay! He didn’t deny it! He did get really paranoid and start looking around … and totally changed the subject and had us continue walking to the other end of the square.



It was a little surprising to me to hear how few students had heard of the massacre …. Which reminded me I’m the oldest person on the trip … but once we get on the bus John didn’t hesitate bringing it up. He’s like ‘let’s talk about the massacre from 1989. I can only talk about it in private, not public, since speaking of it is forbidden and we can get in trouble.’ But he doesn’t mind telling us about it, since he was actually one of the student protestors there that day. He said students had gathered to peacefully demonstrate not against the party itself, but the government didn’t quite see it that way. he said when bullets were firsw fired and blood was first shed, he thought they were part of the fireworks show ... but then it became clear something had gone terribly awry. he said about 300-400 students were likely killed that day, and the number could be as high as 1,000 ... but they will never know for sure, as the government immediately covered it up and denied it ever happened. to this day, it's illegal to speak about it publically, but john tells us he will talk about it privately ... although it makes him uncomfortable since he's afraid of being spied on and prosecuted. :(

chinese TV

words you will never hear in a U.S. broadcast: "And now for sports, here's the latest in badmitton news ..."

how funny ... this CCTV is a riot ....

The City Wall – Chariots of Fire!

The next day we visit the city wall … the Chinese are big on walls and moats … not only did the country have a wall … but most cities had walls too! So we climb to the top of the xian city wall, which is 14 km long … and spy some rickshaws down the way. We pile in 2 each and ask what the Chinese word for fast is (Hui!). we scream at our chariot drivers to go hui hui! And we race down the wall … they totally get into it … but one thing we didn’t realize was the wall was made of cobblestones … and after all those centuries … some of them are missing (potholes are universal it seems). We were bouncing around violently as our guides don’t slow down …. And we couldn’t stop laughing! The only regret is not wearing my sports bra that day! Oh well it was fun … we’re 10 minutes late to meet the group, but it was totally worth it ….

Clubbing

The kids all went to a nightclub, but I just wanted to crash. Turns out I missed quite the event …. The kids were the hit of the club .. showing the Chinese how to dance and freak on each other … the Chinese tried to play along and mimic them … and they sort of got the idea …. But didn’t quite get that girls and boys can freak …. Girls and girls can freak …. But boys and boys shouldn’t really freak! That’s another club! Oh well …. It seems everyone had a good time.

Xi’an (cont)

For dinner we had a ‘dumpling feast’ … since dumplings are a big deal here. It was awesome, as I find dumplings to be edible, unlike some of the other crap we’ve been served. We had veggie … pork … mushroom and shrimp … red bean …. All kinds …. All delicious. One thing we noticed … was that if a table didn’t finish their dumplings, the waitress put them back in the big bin, and redistributed them to another table. Resourceful! (but kinda gross).

After dinner we walked next door to see the Tang Dynasty show … something you’d see in Vegas … singing …. Dancing … acrobatics … drinks …… there was one interpretive dance done that was inspired by the No. 4 most beautiful woman in the emperor’s concubine. Not sure why she was chosen to have a dance made about her …. I hope girls no. 1 – 3 aren’t jealous!

We totally did the cheesy photo opp at the end … where we got to dress up on costume with the performers. Yay for cheese! I’ll take it in any form I can at this point.

Fashion notes

The same fashion trend I noticed last time is still in effect … it’s anklet panty hose worn with sandals, we don’t know why the girls don’t go barefoot with sandals … they dig these anklets! The other trends that have found their way over here are black leggings cut off at the knee or mid-calf worn under dresses … and empire waists. People wear at least one pair of jade at all times … and cell phones are tricked out with charms, photos, tags and ringtones. Everyone is constantly playing games on their cellphones, or texting. No matter how much you think people are attached to their cells in the U.S. … it’s even more prevalent here!

June 8 – Shanghai to Xi’An

Today we head to the airport for a domestic flight on China Eastern (the southwest or Frontier Air of china). We’re heading to Xi’An to see the No. 8 Wonder of the World, the Terra Cotta Soldiers! There were more than 720,000 made over a span of 38 years at the request of a loopy emperor, who wanted to maintain his dynasty and rule in the afterlife and built these soldiers to help him do that. Didn’t quite work out, as he was eventually overthrown and most of his soldiers were destroyed. Of the 720,000, only 8,000 have been restored and are on display at this fabulous site.

The soldiers were discovered in the 1970s when four farmers found them while digging in their fields. The four founders, who were once friends, are all now bitter enemies and hate each other. Good times! They’ve fought over the fame and notoriety which came from being the discoverers of such a significant archeological and historical treasure … it’s kind of a sad and ironic story. Anyway, while we were there, the most famous of the founding farmers was there signing his book. We were not allowed to photograph him, and he even held a fan in front of his face that read ‘no photos please!’ to prevent this from happening …. It was actually quite funny!

There are three pits of soldiers you can visit … the first pit is HUGE … about the size of your average airplane hangar, and only natural lighting is used – flash photography is not allowed! Interesting note, when the soldiers were found, they were all painted – they even still had their rosy cheeks! But the exposure to air and light turned them black through the years. In the first pit, the soldiers are still the terra cotta color and they are lined up in a certain order … with the lowest ranking soldiers first … then officers … then generals .. then emperors. The second pit has one of the only chariots found …. 4 horses and the soldiers behind them …the chariot didn’t make it, but you can see where it would have been. The third pit we visited showed how the soldiers were found … all jacked up and busted … pieces everywhere …. It’s amazing how much work had gone into restoring them. As Melanie and I cruise around, we find another cheesy Chinese photo opp … we pay $20 US to dress in terra cotta warrior costumes and get our photo taken! We feel like we’re in those big sumso wrestling costumes … but once you get into these costumes you just want to have a sword fight! We get the nice lady to take our picture with our own camera … This is no costume prop … the swords are real and heavy!

We love the city of Xi’An … our guide “Maggie” tells us it’s a city of 8 million people, and although it is not the most populous city in china in present day, it was the “No. 1 big city in china in 2000 B.C.!” it is also the “No. 1 Education City” as it has more colleges here then anywhere, and has the “No. 1 hot springs in china!”

Maggie, who calls Xi’An home, shares with us some interesting tidbits about china and her city … for example China invented 4 key items that impacted the rest of the world: paper, printing, gun powder and the compass. She told us about the Tang Dynasty, which featured “plump women with big bottoms” …. I love the Tangs! These are my peeps!

Xi-An, a former capital, is an ancient city, and no building is more than 6 stories high. It also doesn’t have a subway system, as if they were to dig one, they would likely hit many historical relics still buried. She said they plan to build one within 20 years, but it will take a long time due to the careful job they must do with excavation.

Shanghai

We take the bus to shanghai and I go over the intinerary with our tour guide “Tony” to see when my shopping time will be. It appears he jam-packed the schedule so there’s only 20 minutes of free time …. This simply won’t work!! I have tons of shopping to do and need to make it back to my favorite local market. I remember the hullabaloo I caused last year when I insisted on more shopping time and got in a fight with tour guide “eddie” who called me some colorful names in both Chinese and English … I brace myself for my request with Tony …. I tell him I’ve already been to shanghai and done all the stuff they had on the agenda, and I wanted to split from the tour and do my own thing. I braced for the lashing out I was about to receive …. Deep breath …. And tony comes back with a ‘no problem! I’ll show you were to get a cab. Meet us at the hotel at 10.’ No way!!! I was free! I love tony … tony No. 1!!!

so the bus lets out at the pearl TV tower (shanghai’s space needle) and they go one way and I go the other to get my cab. This will be a good exercise for me as I want to live in shanghai someday, and want to make sure I know how to get around. We’re spoiled on a tour bus with tour guides … everything seems so simple … how would I do without my security blankets? I stood there for a few minutes just taking it in … one by one the group disappears and I’m left standing there …. Not familiar faces in sight … all alone ….. cars whizzing by … people running up to me offering to take my portrait … people running up to me offering to steal my handbag … I wondered if it was too late to rejoin the tour …

But I stuck it out and walked up to an available cab. I knew where I wanted to go, and I’ve got a half semester of LBCC Chinese class under my belt. That should do it! I approach the cab and say “Yu Garden” … relieved that I am going to a very simple place to pronounce, as well as very famous tourist attraction. It’s like going to NYC and asking a cabbie to take you to Times Square.

Or maybe not. He just stared at me. YU GARDEN, I say again, trying not to do that thing where when someone doesn’t understand you, you just say it louder. He just waved me away and now I’m back on the curb. I try again with the next available cab … “Yu Garden” and the guy tries talking to me in Chinese, rather strongly and adamantly. I’m really not sure how hard this is going to end up being … but it seems more difficult than it needs to be. In the meantime some locals approach the cab, get inside and speed off. Bastards.

Now there’s no cabs. I wait and stroll … but no dice. I am next to a huge giant traffic circle and decide to start walking toward it as there’s taxis zipping through it. There aren’t really any crosswalks here for pedestrians … you just wait and go when you can. Except in a traffic circle, the pace is even more fast and furious …. Any hesitation and it’s death by bus, taxi, Honda or bicycle. This is live Frogger. But I see the carrot dangling ahead of me … all I have to do is cross the street and I will arrive at SUPER BRAND MALL … yay! From across the street I see the first store inside is H&M, so that’s all the motivation I need. I stick with a pack of locals as we dodge traffic together and find great comfort in the confines of the Kylie Minogue collection of H&M once I arrive in the mall. I thought about just staying here and doing mall shopping. I see the H&M tunic I bought was $5 cheaper in the US and realize I am here to bargain shop, not mall shop! Upon exiting the store I see a tourist information booth and ask the nice man there if he speaks some English. He does! Jackpot! I tell him I can’t find a cab to take me to Yu Garden. He doesn’t understand ‘Yu Garden’ either, so I show him the photo of it on my camera. He’s like ‘Oh! Yu Garden! It closed today!’

Me: I don’t want to go to the garden itself, just the stores around it for shopping.
Him: Yu Garden closed today.
Me: that’s ok. I don’t want to go into the garden. I just want to go to the neighborhood it’s in. the stores around it will be open. I want to go shopping in the stores AROUND yu garden, not INSIDE garden.
Him: but Yu Garden is closed. No taxi will take you there.
Me: Yu Garden neighborhood only!
This went on for 5 more painful minutes before I gave up on the taxi idea and asked for a bus. He gave me a map and told me take the tourist train to the other side of the pudong river, then said I could catch a cab from there to Yu Garden.


The only thing I regret about taking the tourist train is that no one was there to experience it with me. I took some video of it to help capture the magic … but it really doesn’t do it justice. It’s basically a little pod car, like the thing you ride up to the top of the St. Louis arch in, but only seats 4. It’s almost all glass …. Which allows passengers to see the magical laser and light show that suddenly starts upon departure … along with cheesy English narrative, about how you are entering a space tunnel. I swear this is not to be missed … if you are into cheese … and since this is the land of no dairy, all cheese is welcome!

So I get to the other side of the river, where yu garden is, and enjoy the spectacular Bund …. The strip along the river where you can see the amazing shanghai skyline. I snap a few photos and try to catch a cab. No luck. Same thing. They all just start talking to me in Chinese and speed off. Guess that means I’m walking! The walk wasn’t that bad … took about an hour …. And I was relieved to finally get to where I was going. I remember this shop I went to last time I was here, and I loved the girls who work here, as they’ll make the pearl necklaces and jewelry in front of you.

I visit my first favorite stall and get some pearl necklaces made (they have to be hand-made because American necks are much bigger than the dainty swan-like Chinese necks! The girl working today is the sister of the girls who owns the shop and makes all of her own jewelry, and she starts making the necklaces gets to work on three of them and I browse the rest of the store, looking for more treasures. She automatically gives me the prices at half off sticker price, which you usually have to bargain down to …. So that makes life easier. I feel bad haggling for a lower price, since she’s already giving me such a great deal and automatically halved the prices, but I ask for a few bonus pieces since buying in quantity usually warrants some free gifts! I tell the girl I’ll be back in a few years, and she tells me to bring my friends! I have her card so if anyone ever goes to shanghai, you must stop by her store! Her jewelry is truly magical and unique.

The market is only open until 9 p.m. and it’s now 8 …. That means one hour left for my final store … the other pearl shop I like, which I visited on my first visit. These girls knot all of the necklaces and let you choose your own clasp … I love participatory jewelry making! and will also make anything for you. I like them because they also have lots of jade, turquoise and coral to choose from. I get my list of people to buy for and get to work.

The best is when I get to mom’s pearl request and they pull out the expensive tray. “For mama!” They say. The price is triple and I’m like …hmmmm ….. I say we can get the other pearls for mama, as she will think they are still beautiful …. But they refuse … they are like ‘she give you life!!! These are mama pearls!!!’ so mom, if you’re reading this, you get by far the most expensive pearls!! But they did throw in the earrings for free … yay!

It’s now 9 p.m. and I still need some necklaces made … I ask if they are going to close and they say no! I have three girls working on my order and they just keep knotting and creating fabulous little treasures for everyone! I finally get done with my order … but not before they sell me about $110 more worth of stuff at the last minute …. Who knew I needed a jade necklace too? I made the mistake of telling them I didn’t want to just have a jade necklace because I had nothing to wear with it … so before I knew it they were measuring my wrist for a bracelet, and whipping out some earrings. The whole set was $25 … made right before my eyes …. How can a girl say no to that? I helped them close the shop around 10 p.m. … one of the girls helping make all of the jewelry was from the silk shop next door, so since she wasn’t in her store, she lost some business … so how I had to buy something from her as well … oh well … she did have a nice selection so I was happy to help her out too. I asked them for one last favor … could they help me get a cab back to the hotel? They were too happy to help, and had me in the cab and on my way in no time … we agreed to still be friends, and I would come back the next time I’m in shanghai … I have their card too!

I get to the hotel … the 45-minute cab ride cost me about $4 … and decide to have dinner at an intriguing place called “West Food Café” … upon entering I’m handed a pack of toilet paper(?). not sure what to make of it, but I eat anyway. The menu had a bunch of random items … ribeye steak … spaghetti with mushrooms … nothing really caught my eye … and the waitress stood over me and watched me review the menu … hovering …. A close hover …. An uncomfortable hover, made even more uncomfortable by the fact I’m the only one there and it’s completely silent … she stood over to me like she was going to grade me on my performance on selection. I had to pick something just to end this uncomfortable situation! so I decided on ‘seafood rice with cheese’ thinking it would be seafood risotto. Not really sure what I was thinking as it was a big bowl of rice covered with melted cheese on top …. Under the layer of cheese was some shrimp (eyes, antennae and legs still in effect, poking through the melty goodness) and other random animals in shells. The meal also came with minestrone soup and a croissant …. And I ordered some mango-orange juice, which was served slightly warmed. Cant’ say I was satisfied, but at least I scored some TP, which is very coveted in this land. Yay!

Hungzhuo

Here in the town of “No. 1 Lover’s Lake,” our tour guide ricky (who introduced himself as “Ricky! Not Ricky Martin, but Ricky Chan!”) points out that hung zhuo is a leisure city compared to the more hardworking Shanghai and Beijing. He says the normal work day in China is 9 – 5 … but Shanghai is more like 7 a.m. – 10 p.m…. and hungzhuo is more like 10 – 4. He said it is also famous for having residents with beautiful white skin …. Even the boys! Boys are also very metro here .. and help women with housework, chores and cooking … which is not found elsewhere in china, as men are generally more macho and don’t help with women’s work … the gender roles are still very traditional here … although women usually do work so the family has more income.

Ricky also told us about the university system here. All college students must take the same standardized test …. Which is administered on the same day throughout the whole country. Depending on your score, you will either score a nice job … or if you finish in the bottom half …. “you will drop to the bottom of society” says ricky. When you think that only half of all students are even accepted into college …. There’s certainly some pressure to succeed! Universities in china graduate millions of students each year … making competition for jobs pretty intense.